Tale of Two Markets, Part Two

Ukraine Market is a mere two blocks down from the European Delicious Market (our last review). With two markets so close together and catering to the same community, there is some overlap. Both have your Eastern European standards, such as rye bread. However, they also have different characteristics – European Delicious is larger, and a little imposing. Ukraine Market is smaller and the newer of the two. Like any underdog, they are very aware of their competition and advertize their prices accordingly.

Ukraine Market has a very small produce section, some carrots, beets, onion and cabbage. Their pickled vegetable selection is larger than their fresh, including pickled dill. Other staples include egg-noodles, bulgur, fruit juices, teas and candies. Behind the counter they have a small selection of matryoshka (Russian Nesting) dolls and other imported crafts.

Their bakery case has large cakes and pastries they make on site, both for their own store and for wholesale. Currently, I’m in love with their honey cookies. They are slightly soft cookies with a delicate honey taste. Call ahead to make sure they’re in stock.

If you are looking for caviar for your New Year’s Eve party, Ukrainian Market’s deli case has several types, including black, red and salmon. Alongside cured meats and cheese, their deli has several prepared items, such as stuffed cabbage. There is a larger selection at the end of the week than the beginning.

Preserved fish plays a large role in the Eastern European cuisine, and there are many types of canned herring and sardines to choose from. (Legend has it that eating herring at midnight on New Year’s Eve will bring you good luck.) Pelmeni, similar to Polish pierogis, that are made in-house stock their small freezer section.

On my several visits, the staff has always been friendly and helpful. I don’t think I could possibly choose one market over the other; each has their own unique feel and niche.


Ukraine Market
10390 W. 64th Ave.
Arvada, CO 80003
303-423-8081

Tale of Two Markets, Part One

One of the reasons Zach and I decided to start this blog was that Denver is home to so many different ethnic communities. Just like Chinatown and Little Italy in New York City, some groups have formed small communities, opening several markets in close proximity. This week I’ll be reviewing two different Russian/Ukrainian markets. The fact that these two markets are less than two-blocks away from each other illustrate the thriving Ukrainian community in Arvada.

Their little gingerbreads make great hostess gifts.

The European Delicious market is the larger and older of the two.  The word “European” could really be modified with “Eastern.” Sure British tea and Italian olive oil are technically “European” but you won’t find them here. However if you are looking for caviar or a certain tea (or herb) that your бабушка or бабуся used, this is the place.

European Delicious has a deli case with various cheeses and cured sausages, and a bakery case with mostly small pastries during the week with some larger cakes during the weekend. In the frozen section you’ll find Polish butter, house-made frozen pirogues and other specialties.

Their produce section is seasonal and limited. During my last visit their fresh vegetables included beets, onions, fresh dill, cucumbers and potatoes. Fruit is limited to seasonal offerings; this week was persimmons and pomegranates.  On previous visits, they have had quince and plums. If you’re lucky they’ll have the really large cabbage heads in, perfect for home-made cabbage rolls.

Their bread selection is small, but decent; our favorite is the Lithuanian bread. Even if it travels from New York City, it is my all-time favorite dark bread. It is so dense, you feel like you’re picking up a brick. Though this particular loaf is unsliced, it is easy to cut thin slices for open-faced sandwiches.  The dry good selection is exceptional. Various kinds of canned fish, pickles and grains line the shelves. The tea selection alone is overwhelming and there are many hard to find herbs. There are also many types of cookies to choose from.

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll love the bulk candy section. Over two aisles have individually wrapped chocolates, gummies and hard candies. (Look carefully at the box label if you have nut allergies.) I love getting some random candies for stocking stuffers, much more interesting than the standard chocolates. Surprisingly with so many items from Russia, they also have a wide variety of Turkish Delights and Turkish coffee. Zach and I recognized several brands from our trip to Istanbul last year.  

The perfect Stocking Stuffer -  Matryoshka chocolates.

To be completely honest, this market epitomizes some of the reasons many people do not visit smaller ethnic markets. The store is a bit dark and lacking storage with items and boxes everywhere. Many items do not have clear English labels. On several visits I hear Russian spoken more than English, which can be a little intimidating.  Please do not let that stop you. European Delicious is a gem of a market with some great products. Don't be afraid to ask questions, the staff can be very helpful.

Next up, a new neighbor, the Ukrainian Market.

European Delicious

10050 Ralston Rd., #H (Crossroads: Ralston and Rensselaer Drive)

Arvada, CO 80004

No lemon, no melon, but why no durian?

Durians aren't allowed on Singapore's MRT (subway system). 

There are foods in your life that you'll never forget. Maybe your mother's Christmas cookies, or your grandfather's lasagna holds a special place in your heart. One of mine is durian, the king of fruit. It is a milestone for all those looking to try new things. This fruit has been referenced in movies, and not in a good way. In "Eat, Pray, Love", Julia Roberts is told to say away from this intriguing fruit because it supposedly smells like stinky feet. I've heard the smell described as sewage or rotting animal. Personally, I liken the smell to slightly off melon. The aroma is slightly repulsive, yet attractive at the same time. One thing for sure, it is unique and once you identify it, you'll never forget it. The odor is also pervasive, and as such, it has been banned from many regional hotels, and public transit systems.

Durians lined up on the side of a building.

Ranging in colors of green, durians are generally a bit smaller than the size of your head. On the outside of this fruit is a very hard, incredibly spiky shell; so much so that it has to be handled with gardening or utility gloves.The inside consists of a few pods stretching lengthwise, filled with a custard-esque flesh with a inedible pit. If you aren't thrown off by the smell, this is the other big pitfall. The texture freaks people out. Not only does it feel like a custard, but it is a bit stringy as well. It takes awhile to get used too.

I know this all sounds like a huge warning sign, but there is something to this fruit. In parts of Asia, particularly in the south-east, people go out for Durian like we might go out for ice cream; they love it. There are street corners lined with durians of different grades, and you can smell these places blocks away. You can get your durian to go, or sit in their make-shift dining area on the side of the street, consisting of mismatched chairs and tables, often of the folding variety. There is a certain romance with this fruit that I can not explain. My first experience wasn't magic, I didn't scarf it down, but a few months later, I had the hankering to try it again. It is almost always served raw and alone. Dishes that call for durian are few and far between; it is hardly ever cooked. Durian flavored candies can be found more readily, and while not having eaten them myself, I could see them as a stepping stone into raw durian.

Greg is a world traveler I met in Singapore. This was taken
as we were eating durian on the side of the street. 

I encourage everyone to take your palate for a spin with one of these. I have found a few places that carry durian, including Pacific Ocean Marketplace. They come frozen whole, or with just the flesh. Go for the full experience and get a whole one. Hack shell open with a big knife. I wouldn't use your best kitchen knife, but rather a small ax or something you can really get after this fruit with. I would suggest going outside to do this just so that if you do find the odor repulsive, it doesn't linger in your house.

Savory Spice Shop

It started innocently enough. One empty spice jar, then another....

 And the next thing I knew I was out of cinnamon the week before Thanksgiving. In my mind, the two go together hand in hand. Why do you think there are so many homey candles that smell like cinnamon? This was a full-blown culinary emergency.

Some readers may balk at making a special trip for cinnamon or any spice for that matter. True, you could buy cinnamon at supermarkets, big-box stores, discount stores, or even at some gas stations. I would argue if you’re going through the work (and expense) of cooking from scratch, why settle for old, stale spices? Using fresh ingredients is key to any recipe, whether that be fresh tomatoes or fresh spices.

Living in the Denver area, we’re very luck to have Savory Spice Shop. With several locations in and out of Colorado (and on-line sales), it is THE place for fresh spices. Many top restaurants buy in bulk from Savory. Walking in, the shop seems quaint with exposed brick and shelves of gallon-sized glass jars. 

Once you start looking at the rows of spices and herbs, the selection becomes a little overwhelming. There are more than ten types of peppercorns. Six types of paprika. Crystallized ginger, lemongrass, harissa, more curry blends then I would know what to do with. Their inventory goes beyond spices with dried mushrooms, vanilla beans, honey powder - even citric acid. If you're looking for a way to shake up a cookie recipe, Savory has extracts from anise to spearmint.

Savory sells their spices and herbs in small jars, or in plastic bags allowing you to buy only as much as you need. Instead of being stuck with a full jar of mace or a large container of cocoa that you’ll never use up, you can buy as a little as half an ounce. This allows much more flexibility and a chance for experimentation.

While loose leaf tea would be make cozy shelve-mates, you won't find them here. (Though they do have Chai spice mixes to add to your black tea.) Savory Spice Shop has found its calling and has remained true to it. No tea or coffee.

While my shopping list only had five items somehow things kept jumping into my basket. Next thing I know, I came home with this:

One of my favorite finds at Savory Spice Shop are the freeze-dried shallots, an unusual pantry staple. Adding a pinch of these shallots makes quick work for vinaigrette.  Eye-ball some balsamic in a jar, add a hefty pinch of shallots, salt and pepper (maybe a little Dijon mustard), eye-ball more olive oil, shake, done. Easy salad dressing to make at the last minute for a bunch of lettuce or leftover roasted beets.

Savory has fantastic mixtures as well, great for foolproof seasoning. Some of our favorites include Romano Steak Seasoning and Limnos Lamb Rub.  I’m excited to try these two new coffee based mixtures:

Baker’s Brew Coffee Spice has coffee, cocoa, cinnamon and other spices. I can already envisioning it for some mocha pressed cookies. The Black Dust Coffee & Spice Rub has coffee, black pepper, cumin, smoked salt, chipotle and other savory spices – this is crying out to be used in a chili recipe.

As for the cinnamon, I settled on Vietnamese Saigon Cassia Cinnamon - one of five to choose from. It’s applicable for both sweet and savory recipes and smells downright divine. With it's strong aroma you can use a little less than required. Those two ounces will go a long way. I'm now ready to make my great-grandmother's apple cake for Thanksgiving.

What spice or herb is on your "must have" list for Thanksgiving?

A Trip to the Ocean

I am a big fan of East Asian cuisine. Asia has a large population, and people had to get fed with what few resources they had. How did they manage? Simply put, they ate healthy. You may get a large scoop of rice, a good portion of stir-fry veggies or soup, and a few slices of chicken.  The protein is minimal, as tending animals takes labor and resources not to mention the animals can give in other ways including pulling carts, and giving milk or eggs. When protein was up for grabs, by the same principle, they used every bit of the animal they could get their hands on.  Vegetables on the other hand, take less work to grow and you can afford more per person. This system is much healthier and refreshing compared to the American culture where people order 16oz steaks wrapped in bacon along a small side of potatoes and call it a hearty meal.

Live lobsters, crabs, oysters, and clams
next to fresh shrimp. 

What can be found in Pacific Ocean Marketplace embodies everything I like about Asian cuisine. The store is approximately the size of a regular supermarket; with separate produce, meat and cookware sections. Their produce selection has greater variety than can be found in your average supermarket such as lemon grass, bok choy, and kohlrabi. The seafood section alone is worth the stop. They have live lobsters, crabs, fish, and clams, alongside other fresh fillets and seafood. The meat case is also large with an extensive selection, albeit mostly frozen. If you're looking for things like chicken feet, ox tail, pig trotters, tripe, duck feet, pork blood and other less common cuts, Pacific Ocean Marketplace is for you.

Warmed meat case. On the right,
whole ducks, next to what I believe
is pork belly

At Pacific Ocean Marketplace, there are things that wouldn't ever cross the lips of people working in a classic supermarket, which is oddly enough, is located right across the street. Fresh duck eggs, quail eggs, and banana flours, right on through a good selection of frozen specialty items, even some exotic fruits. Most recently, I've seen fresh lychees, dragon fruit, and durian, which is very pungent fruit that is well worth a try (It will get it's own post for me to tell you all about it). They have a warm deli case of precooked beauties. You can special order whole roasted pigs of different sizes. I was a fan of the whole roasted duck that you can get broken down for $20. It can easily feed a family of 4 and is actually really good after getting it crispy in the oven.

Roasted duck with homemade
fried rice and lychee drink. 

To accompany your meal, I beg you to pick up a drink or two from their drink cases that you haven't tried before. They have a lot of exotic fruit juice based drinks, including lychee, sugar cane, and aloe vera, the latter of which is actually really good for you if you can get past the soft fruit flesh in the juice. You may not like all of them, but you will like some of them, and falling in love with something new is a fantastic experience.

Their dry goods section is impressive, everything from soba noodles to dried jellyfish. On the far left of the store is a section devoted to Japan, the Philippines, and a few items fro India.  There is also an aisle of just dishes and kitchen utensils, including a section of a Chinese chef's knives. I am still testing mine, but it seems sturdy. Just be careful not to cut yourself, as there are many are stored without a case as testers.

In the end, if you're looking for an authentic source for Asian cuisine, Pacific Ocean Marketplace can really help you do it right.

Rheinländer Bakery

Sometimes our culture is obsessed with dates. Retailers report lower sales on Friday the 13^th. Various groups claim to know the signs of the end days. Who can forget the Y2K run on generators? It should be as no surprise that we are now fascinated with this Friday’s date – 11/11/11.

November 11^th is also St. Martin’s Day, or Martinstag in Germany. This day is celebrated with various traditions in Germany, as well in several other European countries. Martinstag has a carnival-like feel, as it originally marked the days prior to the Advent fast. Roasted goose is typically served; children make homemade paper lanterns and go house to house, reciting poems or songs in exchange for holiday treats. This holiday marks the beginning of winter and the holiday season, much like Thanksgiving (or now Halloween) does in the United States.

Our review this week is for  Rheinländer Bakery, in Old Town Arvada. While this is not a true grocery as like our other reviews, it is a worthy spot for hard to find foods. If anyone in your family is diabetic or has a gluten-intolerance, this bakery is your salvation. During our visit, there were two full cases of gluten-free products – with cookies, cakes and various pastries. In years past, we’ve ordered a sugar-free birthday cake for my Mom, which never disappoints.

If your body can handle gluten and sugar, there is plenty to keep your taste buds happy as well. Bavarian bread, German coffeecake, flaky strudels are all staples here. For utter decadence, try the homemade “Nuttella,” a chocolate hazelnut spread that elevates ordinary bananas or toast to a real treat.

Besides the baked goods,  Rheinländer Bakery has a fair selection of pastas, German coffee, flavored syrups and a few German staples such as German sauerkraut and pickles.  They also have gluten-free all purpose flour if you want to make a gluten-free version of your grandmother’s favorite recipe.

So how does  Rheinländer Bakery celebrate Martinstag? With a “Sweet Tooth Activation Event.” This Friday, 11/11/11, Rheinländer Bakery is selling their beloved Coffeecakes and Strudels for $11 each. Sugar cookies and biscotti are also on sale for $11 a dozen. While you are there you can also pick up German gingerbread cookies and stolen for Christmas – that is if you can keep them in your house for that long without being devoured.

Christine

  Rheinländer Bakery

5721 Olde Wadsworth Blvd.

Arvada, CO 80002

Welcome to Arash

On a day out on the town, Christine somehow convinced me to drive half an hour to some little Middle Eastern market she had heard of. Upon arrival, I head a pair of women rattling off in a language I didn’t recognize, which is always a good sign; if true foreigners are shopping here, it most likely means you’re in for a treat. Upon entering, we found ourselves in the middle of a small market with simple décor; very reminiscent of a small market of the region. The walls are fairly bare and plain in color, giving off a professional yet humble atmosphere. I don’t need any distractions when I’m shopping. I’m here for the food.

We found a nice sized produce section filled with some of your normal veg but it was the produce that wasn’t, “everyday” that excited us. The items that stood out to us included fresh almonds, Iranian

Cucumbers, sour grapes, and sour oranges; naturally, we bought some of each. We then moved through the aisles, noticing a good selection of coffees, teas, sweets and surprisingly, scented waters. By this I mean, rose water, orange blossom water, tarragon water and other flavors that I didn’t even know were being made into such products.

The small case of frozen meats had me drooling, because I never thought I would see a whole lamb’s head in a market in the US. Normally roasted whole and shared by many, I was bummed when no one would share one with me in Istanbul. This tiny case also had beef tongue, tripe and assorted other frozen meats. Despite all of this amazing food, there was still one thing that topped the rest; imported orange Fanta.

Oh yes my friends, this is my holy grail. You see, companies change recipes for different regions depending on their tastes. For example, Lipton tea is kind of a joke in the US. If you go to Germany or Egypt, the same Lipton is much better. They keep the better quality tea leaves for countries that really drink tea, and give scrap to the US. The same principle is employed by Fanta. The stuff sold in the US has way too much sugar, and you can see and feel the excess syrup. Yuck! Arash has orange Fanta imported from Russia and the flavor is much more in balance.  

Zach

Dia de los Muertos

One of our favorite themes parties is Día de los Muertos– Day of the Dead. Falling on All Saints Day and All Souls Day, Nov. 1 and 2 respectively, it is a day to remember family members who have past. Having friends over to drink and munch on food adds to the fun – with no costumes required.

With the party scheduled for Friday evening, We’re looking for food that is easy to make.  This is a great opportunity to visit two larger Mexican grocery stores, Rancho Liberio and Advanza. Both had the common amenities of a one-stop-shop market; however there is a distinct small market feel that creates a unique hybrid atmosphere.

Ranch Libero had a nice selection of meats, including heart and tripe. Tripe is on its way back into fame because it’s good taste and low cost. On sale at $0.99 per pound, tripe can help make a healthy, cheap dinner. The seafood here was alright. We weren’t ogling over the fish but they did have fresh octopus which is nice. Produce was great, with everything you expect from a chain store and more. Aloe leaves, fresh figs and chayotes, both in the prickly and non-prickly variety. Chayotes are a water based vegetable much like jicama, but with a bit more of a green taste to it. The prickly variety is hard to handle.

Avanza was much like Rancho Libero, with an alright fish section and a decent meat section. The produce section was a bit bigger and included a few extra things like Banana leaves. The one big difference here is that, noticeably in the meat section, there isn’t much translation. Rancho Libero had everything in English and Spanish, while I did notice a lot of things at Avanza that weren’t labeled in English.

At Ranch Libero, we bought some fresh Hojarascas, lovely sable-like cookies from Northern Mexico. Dusted in powdered sugar, these cinnamon cookies would go great with coffee. Of course, we had to taste-test the cookies once we got home – make sure they were as delicious as they looked. Which led to one slight problem…

This one survived the onslaught of hungry stomachs and quick fingers. 

We now need to go buy more for the party.

Christine and Zach

Going Global, Looking Local

I was hankering for kofte, the Middle Eastern specialty of ground lamb, beef, onions and parsley. While it was not difficult to make, sometimes finding the ground lamb is. When my local supermarket fell short, I recalled a co-worker telling me about a cool Middle Eastern market in Aurora. “Great food,” she said, “You should go.”

Since Zach has a love of all food, especially the slightly odd and very fresh, we headed to Aurora to check it out. I could pick up some pomegranate molasses, I thought, just a couple of things. We walked in the door to find a bright up-beat market that had us filling up a cart.

How did we not know about this? Why aren’t we coming here all the time?

Hence the birth of this blog.

We knew of some European markets in our side of town, the Polish deli, the Russian market. When I mentioned these places to friends or neighbors, there was a quizzical, “Where is that at?” These markets are hidden gems, which is a culinary shame. Grocery shopping should not be a segregated experience.

Our blog aims to find the little Mom and Pop places, as well as the larger ethnic markets, that many people would drive by on their way to the chain supermarket with their loyalty card. We’ll be completing our reviews on a map to help you locate these gems and recipes to help you use some of these new ingredients.

Is there a little Thai market in your neighborhood? Or maybe you’ve been looking for that illusive ingredient to complete your grandmother’s favorite dish. Maybe you’ve found some exotic ingredient and want to know how to use it. Let us know! We’ll be updating the blog weekly, and look forward to your comments.

Christine and Zach