Tejal India Grocery

In many ways, Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu God, is a perfect metaphor for the Tejal India Grocery in Thornton.  First of all, you must look beyond the outward appearance. Ganesha’s elephant head, and plump human-body with multiple arms does not fit the expectation of a deity; just as the dark strip-mall with minimal signage belie the sensory wonders within this little store.

When I shop in our local chain supermarket, the only time I feel my nose is engaged is when I’m in the produce section. And depending on the season, even that can be minimal. In the Tejal India Grocery, I had this desire to smell everything. As soon as you walk in, your nose wakes up, like a four-year old from a nap, ready to hit the park. What to smell first? The incense or soap? The fresh curry leaves or mint? Regardless of the teas and spices being factory sealed, the plastic bags could not hold back their aroma. Even items that I know have little odor, like the bags of rice, my nose wanted to suck it in.

 

The small aisles were so densely packed with items, I found myself wandering back and forth, noticing all the things I had missed just five minutes earlier. The backroom storage seems to be spilling out into odd corners and high shelves. If it wasn’t the exotic items that caught my eye, like banana powder, orange blossom water or whole turmeric, it was the beautiful packaging. Labels with elephants, hibiscus flowers, and gorgeous dark-haired children were selling everything from cookies to noodles.

The sheer plethora of foodstuffs made me realize just how little I knew about India cuisine. Go beyond the mango chutney, Tejal India Grocery has coconut, mint or hot chili chutney. I had never heard of Toor Dal, Ponni rice, or Rooh Afza, but they were occupying such large amounts of shelf space, that one could only assume that they must be popular. After a bit of research back home, I learned Toor Dal is also known as “Pigeon Peas,” Ponni rice is popular in Southern India, typically eaten at breakfast and Rooh Afza is syrup used to flavor drinks, especially milk over ice. (Or you can make your own Fruit Punch.) If you are an Indian food novice like me, do not be intimidated. There are lots of prepackaged curry mixtures to choose from.

While the dry goods are overwhelming, there is a good amount of fresh and frozen items as well. Naan bread, multiple flavors of samoas and ice cream lines the freezer shelves, with a separate freezer dedicated to fish. In the refrigerated section, there was mango lassi, various sweets and some produce including peppers.

On this Monday afternoon, most people coming into the store were returning their DVD-rentals of the latest Bollywood films, while I marveled at the bags of whole garam masala.  For a “grocery,” this place goes well beyond foodstuffs. Here you could pick up saris, jewelry, henna paste, music CD’s, even cricket bats. Near the statues of Ganesha, there were jars of Holi Colors, the powdered pigments used in Hindu religious ceremonies, especially the during the Spring festivals.

As I gathered my purchases, I could only image how welcoming this store would be for an East Indian, looking for that elusive ingredient for their mother’s famous dish. Remover of obstacles, indeed. 

Tejal IndiaGrocery

10351 Grant Street, Unit #6

Thornton, Colorado

Little Brazil

This week's market will take you South of the Equator where Summer is in full swing, and plans for Mardi Gras are heating up

Little Brazil lives up to it's name. Situated on Federal, just north of 80th, the only sign you'll see from the road is the Brazilian Flag on the Missions Hill sign. The space is divided into a small grocery, with mainly dry goods from Brazil, and an dining area with a few table. There's neither produce nor a deli counter.

On the grocery side, there are several hard-to-find specialties, such as guava or coconut paste. Little Brazil carries Manioc Starch (Almodón Dulce, also known as tapioca flour,) and Sour Starch (Almodón Agrio), which both come from the cassava, or yucca, plant. Both are essential ingredients for Pao de Queijo, an addictive Brazilian cheese bread. Since Almodón Dulce is not wheat based, you can experiment with it for gluten-free recipes.

If you are more into grilling than baking, Little Brazil carries several different barbeque salts. They even have two types of guarana soda - think of the flavor of a Monster power drink in a lighter soda.

Currently, Little Brazil carries a full menu on the weekends, with only snacks (street-food) offered during the week. Of their snacks, we sampled the coxinha, a chicken croquettes that pair well with the vinegary hot sauce. While the kibe (a bulger wheat and meat croquette) looked over-cooked, the interior was still moist. The ham and cheese risolis looked more like a grilled cheese sandwich than a filled pastry. (They were out of the corn and the ground beef versions.) My favorite was the Torta de Frango Brazileira, a savory little chicken pie. While technically these classify as street food, a couple would make a great lunch.

Clockwise from top left: Kibe, Torta de Frango Brazileira, Risolis and two Coxinha.

Hopefully, Little Brazil will expand their offerings and add more Brazilian specialties. This little store holds great promise.

Little Brazil
8020 Federal Blvd.  #3
Westminster, CO  80031
Closed Sundays and Mondays 

European Gourmet and Tripe Soup

Now that our stomachs have finally digested the last bits of food from the holiday festivities, we can all start to get back into a normal routine. With the new year, maybe you've made a resolution to eat better, try new foods, or adopt a foreign eating style, with bigger lunches and smaller dinners.

European Gourmet is a small Polish deli, with a wide selection of cured meats such as juniper sausage, head cheese, and black sausage. There is also a niceselection of canned and dried goods including sauerkraut soup, chestnut puree, plum butter, rosehip butter, and many herbal teas. Christine and I picked out a few delicious sausages along with a jar of Lingonberries. Lingonberries have a usage somewhat like cranberries. They can be a side to meat dishes, or on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, or even an ingredient in a rub or glaze. The flavor isn't as bitter as a cranberry, and has a darker profile, somewhat like a blackberry.

Lingonberry jam

A "Cracow" sausage

    

A juniper sausage

There is a small frozen section where they have some savory & sweet pierogi's. Looking further in the case, my eye was immediately drawn to the tripe soup. I'm aware that what I eat is not necessarily everyone's cup of tea. I can accept people's reluctance to follow me in my search to eat tongue, eyes, testicles and other oddities, but I feel tripe should be approachable and common in today's household.

Offals, the odd cuts, including the highly perishable intestines, have been slowly coming back into favor with the public. People are not only becoming more adventurous, but with the economic strain, they want something cheap. Restaurants are also starting to look towards offals to replace New York strips, or tenderloins, which make almost no money and can lack flavor. Tripe has a bad reputation from the 1930s and '40. During the depression, it got families by, but it wasn't the best tasting. Not only was the texture odd, but improper cleaning and cooking left many people seeing it as sub-par. Once the war hit and the economy started growing, people were finally able to afford the more expensive cuts and stuck with them. Now many people are too stubborn, or grossed out to try it. With the advancement of kitchen techniques, and technology, we know how to better clean and cook tripe, and with the internet, it isn't hardly out of anyone's reach.

Tripe Soup. Great on a cold winter day. 

This tripe soup was delicious. It included small strips of tripe, along with some standard veg, including carrots, celery, and herbs. When I first tasted it, I was filled with warmth and excitement. In trying to describe it, I related  it to a chicken soup. The broth was darker and richer than a typical chicken soup, but there was no chicken. The meat was the small tripe strips that tasted like thick cut noddles. They had substance behind them, and I looked forward to getting more strips in the next spoonful

Tale of Two Markets, Part Two

Ukraine Market is a mere two blocks down from the European Delicious Market (our last review). With two markets so close together and catering to the same community, there is some overlap. Both have your Eastern European standards, such as rye bread. However, they also have different characteristics – European Delicious is larger, and a little imposing. Ukraine Market is smaller and the newer of the two. Like any underdog, they are very aware of their competition and advertize their prices accordingly.

Ukraine Market has a very small produce section, some carrots, beets, onion and cabbage. Their pickled vegetable selection is larger than their fresh, including pickled dill. Other staples include egg-noodles, bulgur, fruit juices, teas and candies. Behind the counter they have a small selection of matryoshka (Russian Nesting) dolls and other imported crafts.

Their bakery case has large cakes and pastries they make on site, both for their own store and for wholesale. Currently, I’m in love with their honey cookies. They are slightly soft cookies with a delicate honey taste. Call ahead to make sure they’re in stock.

If you are looking for caviar for your New Year’s Eve party, Ukrainian Market’s deli case has several types, including black, red and salmon. Alongside cured meats and cheese, their deli has several prepared items, such as stuffed cabbage. There is a larger selection at the end of the week than the beginning.

Preserved fish plays a large role in the Eastern European cuisine, and there are many types of canned herring and sardines to choose from. (Legend has it that eating herring at midnight on New Year’s Eve will bring you good luck.) Pelmeni, similar to Polish pierogis, that are made in-house stock their small freezer section.

On my several visits, the staff has always been friendly and helpful. I don’t think I could possibly choose one market over the other; each has their own unique feel and niche.


Ukraine Market
10390 W. 64th Ave.
Arvada, CO 80003
303-423-8081

Tale of Two Markets, Part One

One of the reasons Zach and I decided to start this blog was that Denver is home to so many different ethnic communities. Just like Chinatown and Little Italy in New York City, some groups have formed small communities, opening several markets in close proximity. This week I’ll be reviewing two different Russian/Ukrainian markets. The fact that these two markets are less than two-blocks away from each other illustrate the thriving Ukrainian community in Arvada.

Their little gingerbreads make great hostess gifts.

The European Delicious market is the larger and older of the two.  The word “European” could really be modified with “Eastern.” Sure British tea and Italian olive oil are technically “European” but you won’t find them here. However if you are looking for caviar or a certain tea (or herb) that your бабушка or бабуся used, this is the place.

European Delicious has a deli case with various cheeses and cured sausages, and a bakery case with mostly small pastries during the week with some larger cakes during the weekend. In the frozen section you’ll find Polish butter, house-made frozen pirogues and other specialties.

Their produce section is seasonal and limited. During my last visit their fresh vegetables included beets, onions, fresh dill, cucumbers and potatoes. Fruit is limited to seasonal offerings; this week was persimmons and pomegranates.  On previous visits, they have had quince and plums. If you’re lucky they’ll have the really large cabbage heads in, perfect for home-made cabbage rolls.

Their bread selection is small, but decent; our favorite is the Lithuanian bread. Even if it travels from New York City, it is my all-time favorite dark bread. It is so dense, you feel like you’re picking up a brick. Though this particular loaf is unsliced, it is easy to cut thin slices for open-faced sandwiches.  The dry good selection is exceptional. Various kinds of canned fish, pickles and grains line the shelves. The tea selection alone is overwhelming and there are many hard to find herbs. There are also many types of cookies to choose from.

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ll love the bulk candy section. Over two aisles have individually wrapped chocolates, gummies and hard candies. (Look carefully at the box label if you have nut allergies.) I love getting some random candies for stocking stuffers, much more interesting than the standard chocolates. Surprisingly with so many items from Russia, they also have a wide variety of Turkish Delights and Turkish coffee. Zach and I recognized several brands from our trip to Istanbul last year.  

The perfect Stocking Stuffer -  Matryoshka chocolates.

To be completely honest, this market epitomizes some of the reasons many people do not visit smaller ethnic markets. The store is a bit dark and lacking storage with items and boxes everywhere. Many items do not have clear English labels. On several visits I hear Russian spoken more than English, which can be a little intimidating.  Please do not let that stop you. European Delicious is a gem of a market with some great products. Don't be afraid to ask questions, the staff can be very helpful.

Next up, a new neighbor, the Ukrainian Market.

European Delicious

10050 Ralston Rd., #H (Crossroads: Ralston and Rensselaer Drive)

Arvada, CO 80004

No lemon, no melon, but why no durian?

Durians aren't allowed on Singapore's MRT (subway system). 

There are foods in your life that you'll never forget. Maybe your mother's Christmas cookies, or your grandfather's lasagna holds a special place in your heart. One of mine is durian, the king of fruit. It is a milestone for all those looking to try new things. This fruit has been referenced in movies, and not in a good way. In "Eat, Pray, Love", Julia Roberts is told to say away from this intriguing fruit because it supposedly smells like stinky feet. I've heard the smell described as sewage or rotting animal. Personally, I liken the smell to slightly off melon. The aroma is slightly repulsive, yet attractive at the same time. One thing for sure, it is unique and once you identify it, you'll never forget it. The odor is also pervasive, and as such, it has been banned from many regional hotels, and public transit systems.

Durians lined up on the side of a building.

Ranging in colors of green, durians are generally a bit smaller than the size of your head. On the outside of this fruit is a very hard, incredibly spiky shell; so much so that it has to be handled with gardening or utility gloves.The inside consists of a few pods stretching lengthwise, filled with a custard-esque flesh with a inedible pit. If you aren't thrown off by the smell, this is the other big pitfall. The texture freaks people out. Not only does it feel like a custard, but it is a bit stringy as well. It takes awhile to get used too.

I know this all sounds like a huge warning sign, but there is something to this fruit. In parts of Asia, particularly in the south-east, people go out for Durian like we might go out for ice cream; they love it. There are street corners lined with durians of different grades, and you can smell these places blocks away. You can get your durian to go, or sit in their make-shift dining area on the side of the street, consisting of mismatched chairs and tables, often of the folding variety. There is a certain romance with this fruit that I can not explain. My first experience wasn't magic, I didn't scarf it down, but a few months later, I had the hankering to try it again. It is almost always served raw and alone. Dishes that call for durian are few and far between; it is hardly ever cooked. Durian flavored candies can be found more readily, and while not having eaten them myself, I could see them as a stepping stone into raw durian.

Greg is a world traveler I met in Singapore. This was taken
as we were eating durian on the side of the street. 

I encourage everyone to take your palate for a spin with one of these. I have found a few places that carry durian, including Pacific Ocean Marketplace. They come frozen whole, or with just the flesh. Go for the full experience and get a whole one. Hack shell open with a big knife. I wouldn't use your best kitchen knife, but rather a small ax or something you can really get after this fruit with. I would suggest going outside to do this just so that if you do find the odor repulsive, it doesn't linger in your house.

Savory Spice Shop

It started innocently enough. One empty spice jar, then another....

 And the next thing I knew I was out of cinnamon the week before Thanksgiving. In my mind, the two go together hand in hand. Why do you think there are so many homey candles that smell like cinnamon? This was a full-blown culinary emergency.

Some readers may balk at making a special trip for cinnamon or any spice for that matter. True, you could buy cinnamon at supermarkets, big-box stores, discount stores, or even at some gas stations. I would argue if you’re going through the work (and expense) of cooking from scratch, why settle for old, stale spices? Using fresh ingredients is key to any recipe, whether that be fresh tomatoes or fresh spices.

Living in the Denver area, we’re very luck to have Savory Spice Shop. With several locations in and out of Colorado (and on-line sales), it is THE place for fresh spices. Many top restaurants buy in bulk from Savory. Walking in, the shop seems quaint with exposed brick and shelves of gallon-sized glass jars. 

Once you start looking at the rows of spices and herbs, the selection becomes a little overwhelming. There are more than ten types of peppercorns. Six types of paprika. Crystallized ginger, lemongrass, harissa, more curry blends then I would know what to do with. Their inventory goes beyond spices with dried mushrooms, vanilla beans, honey powder - even citric acid. If you're looking for a way to shake up a cookie recipe, Savory has extracts from anise to spearmint.

Savory sells their spices and herbs in small jars, or in plastic bags allowing you to buy only as much as you need. Instead of being stuck with a full jar of mace or a large container of cocoa that you’ll never use up, you can buy as a little as half an ounce. This allows much more flexibility and a chance for experimentation.

While loose leaf tea would be make cozy shelve-mates, you won't find them here. (Though they do have Chai spice mixes to add to your black tea.) Savory Spice Shop has found its calling and has remained true to it. No tea or coffee.

While my shopping list only had five items somehow things kept jumping into my basket. Next thing I know, I came home with this:

One of my favorite finds at Savory Spice Shop are the freeze-dried shallots, an unusual pantry staple. Adding a pinch of these shallots makes quick work for vinaigrette.  Eye-ball some balsamic in a jar, add a hefty pinch of shallots, salt and pepper (maybe a little Dijon mustard), eye-ball more olive oil, shake, done. Easy salad dressing to make at the last minute for a bunch of lettuce or leftover roasted beets.

Savory has fantastic mixtures as well, great for foolproof seasoning. Some of our favorites include Romano Steak Seasoning and Limnos Lamb Rub.  I’m excited to try these two new coffee based mixtures:

Baker’s Brew Coffee Spice has coffee, cocoa, cinnamon and other spices. I can already envisioning it for some mocha pressed cookies. The Black Dust Coffee & Spice Rub has coffee, black pepper, cumin, smoked salt, chipotle and other savory spices – this is crying out to be used in a chili recipe.

As for the cinnamon, I settled on Vietnamese Saigon Cassia Cinnamon - one of five to choose from. It’s applicable for both sweet and savory recipes and smells downright divine. With it's strong aroma you can use a little less than required. Those two ounces will go a long way. I'm now ready to make my great-grandmother's apple cake for Thanksgiving.

What spice or herb is on your "must have" list for Thanksgiving?